Make sure the split jambs are plumb using your marks from the plumb bob or chalk line check with a level. Repeat the process with the second split jamb at the halfway point. Next, butt the split jamb against the nailer header and nail into place. The floor plate has protruding “fingers” that connect with slots on the split jamb slip the “fingers” into the slots. Starting with the split jamb by the nailer header, attach the bottom of the split jamb to the floor plate. Drop the plumb bob flush with the nailer header and mark on the floor, then repeat halfway in the “pocket” of the wall. The first split jamb is flush with the nailer header the other is set halfway in the “pocket” of the wall.Īs a guide for plumbing the split jambs, the manufacturer recommends snapping two chalk lines on the floor even with the side jambs, but we found that a plumb bob worked just as well. The split jambs are positioned in two places. Now you’re ready to attach the split jambs. Drive nails through the remaining holes in the end plates. Hang the end plates for the header by slipping the slots over the nails in the rough studs.
Turn the header on its side and cut nailing strips only at the proper mark. Measure the door and add 1″-this is the length you’ll use to cut the nailing strips. Put the end brackets back on the cut end of the header. Turn the header over and cut the metal track 1 3/8″ shorter than the wood header. At the length for your door, cut the wood header only. To adjust the length of the pocket door header before hanging it, remove the end brackets. The wood header has markings on it for various door widths. The header is composed of a wood header and a metal track sandwiched between two nailing strips (the nailer headers). The wood header’s markings are stamped at the factory for easy cutting to length. At the level of the marks, drive a 2″ nail in the center of each stud, leaving 1/8″ protruding for the pocket door header end brackets to rest on. Depending on the clearance needed under the door, measure up from the finished floor 80 3/4″ to 81 1/2″, which will leave 3/4″ to 1 1/2″ of space at the floor. We used 2x4s for the header and the studs, and secured them with 2″ nails. Square and plumb the header (for the rough opening) with the studs, making sure the header is level. We calculated the 3/4″ trim for the jamb into the width of our rough opening (69 3/4″). Additionally, because our pocket door was paneled, we realized that it needed to look centered in the closed position.
#Pocket soor plus#
The width of the rough opening is two times the door’s width plus one inch-for example, if your door is 34″ wide, the opening should be 69″ wide. Our old door measured 78 1/2″, so we lowered the header by 1 1/2″, cutting the bottom ends of the split jambs. If your door is 80″ high-standard size-construct a rough opening of a header and two studs at a minimum height of 84 1/2″. With this information in hand, we forged ahead to create a new pocket from our original door. Even the tracks, which affix to the floor via keyhole slots, are easy to take out without opening up the wall. If rollers should jump tracks, modern doors are removable for easy re-hanging.
Today’s pocket door hardware uses nylon rollers on box-style metal tracks for smoother operation, and track-jumping is rare. (Todd and I both have had to pry our cantankerous living room pocket doors out of the wall.) But after researching modern options, we found the same wasn’t true of the new breed of pocket doors. We were well aware of the problems associated with historic pocket door repair, because they are notorious for sticking, being noisy to operate, or worse, falling off of their tracks. So, inspired by two sets of original pocket doors in our living room, we decided to turn our existing bathroom door into a pocket door. When we mapped out a design, the floor plan had one stumbling block: the sink obstructed the swing of the bathroom door. We wanted to fit a lot into the small room: tub, toilet, sink, and hopefully a tiny linen closet, too.
#Pocket soor full#
Restoring the only full bathroom in our circa-1900 Victorian duplex launched my husband, Todd, and me on a race for space. Pocket door kits come with two split jambs one is installed next to the header, and the other halfway down the wall.
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